stunning Andean scenery at Machu Picchu


the Earth Temple, an example of ingenious Inca masonry technique



do you recognise the llama?! we named him Nathan, after our tour member who couldn't make it to Machu Picchu

26.09.09 Last Day of Inca Trail - Machu Picchu

4.30am

After thanking all the 23 porters who carried our luggage and tents, yesterday evening Carlos ran through with us our options for an early start to Machu Picchu. As there are many tour parties departing from our campsite on the same day, it’s imperative we secure our space in the queue at the checkpoint. We opt for rising at 4.00am, skipping breakfast and heading off at 4.30am to be well ahead of the other groups for when the checkpoint opens at 5.30am.
It’s pitch black at that time in the morning and I feel like we’re all off on a school trip by the rising excitement that’s growing through our ranks.
When the checkpoint opens, it’s getting light, and the race is on to arrive at the Inca Sun Gate as the first rays of morning sun shine through towards Machu Picchu.

climbing the steep stone steps to the Sun Gate

The Sun Gate is the point at which all weary travellers and pilgrims first encounter the panorama of Machu Picchu, nestled amidst stunning Andean mountains. Greg and I are fortunate to catch a glimpse of the city before clouds descend and hide it from view.

At first I am a little disappointed by the sheer number of trekkers covering every step of the Sun Gate, however the atmosphere is one of excitement and anticipation as Machu Picchu reveals itself through the cloud one last time, and there is a sense that we all made it.

This is what we’ve travelled thousands of miles to witness. After resting and awaiting the remainder of the group we begin our descent to the city. Unfortunately one of our group, Nathan, is unable to trek with us today, because he is very ill with food poisoning. A stretcher team is called to carry him down the mountain as he is too weak to walk and one of our tour, Corey, who is a doctor, stays with him until he is transported to the local town of Aguas Calientes for some much needed re-hydration treatment. We have so much sympathy for the bad luck he’s suffered, having to miss out on the highlight of his South American tour. However, we come to the conclusion that, although the precarious setting of Machu Picchu on top of the severe craggy mountains is stunning in itself, the actual city is not as remarkable and the hoards of tourists make it seem like a bit of a theme park. We have to jostle past hundreds of people who have journeyed by train and we have a distinct resentment towards them because they haven’t struggled as we have to be there. The place is, in effect, spoiled by the winding road up from the train station bringing all the daytrippers on loud coaches. Carlos explains that there is no limit to the numbers allowed into Machu Picchu each day. It is dictated by the train company, whose backhanders to the Peruvian government, allow the national park to be open 365 days a year. However, Machu Picchu may not be around for very much longer. Geologists have discovered that beneath the mountain’s surface there are many hollows of air and, in fact, the whole place is subsiding. This can be seen in the cracks which are appearing in certain sections of the Inca walls.

Hiram Bingham discovered the lost city of Machu Picchu in 1911 after much investigation into Inca culture. He was in fact looking for the imperial city of Villcabamba when, after asking a local farmer about the area of the Urubamba valley, he was led to the top of the mountain where the remains of the great Inca city lay under masses of overgrown vegetation.
The position of the city was most definitely chosen for its proximity to the sun, high in the uppermost mountain passes, and the presence of a natural spring which would provide much needed water for the settlement.
The Inca himself had a palace here alongside three important temples of the sun, water and earth. The Inca celebrated the environment around them and treated the elements of life with great respect. The temple of the earth displays incredible Inca masonry with carefully cut stones fitting perfectly between two natural rock formations. Again the dedication and patience of the Inca stone masons is made evident to us. The white granite was quarried from the mountainside itself but it was dangerous work and many must have died in the process.
Machu Picchu was abandoned by its inhabitants when news arrived that the Spaniards were on their way to conquer. It is said that the gold, silver and jewels which adorned the buildings were smuggled by the Inca to be hidden somewhere in the jungle, to avoid the fate that had befallen other royal cities, where the Spaniards had looted all metal and had had it melted down.
Legend has it that there is still one undiscovered Inca city which has the shape of the underground god, the snake. Cusco was built in the form of the earth god, the puma, Machu Picchu in the form of the heavenly god, the condor, and therefore the missing city of the snake is still a mystery. Perhaps it’s hidden in the Amazon jungle.
As we’re bussed down the winding mountainside road to the little town of Aguas Calientes, we’re taken aback by the sheer height at which Machu Picchu sits, and we’re also sadly reminded that this is the end of our Inca Trail adventure. Although we’re exhausted and in need of a good shower, we wouldn’t have journeyed to Machu Picchu any other way. The four day trek has been a challenge we’ll never forget.

25.09.09 Third Day of Inca Trail

I slept very well last night and I think it was partially down to the Te Macho with a splash of rum we were all offered by Carlos, our guide, before bed. Te Macho is fruity and sweet and very welcome in the cold climes of the mountain tops. We were camped in the middle of nowhere and, even when we awoke, the cool mist still surrounded us accompanied, unfortunately, by clouds of midges. We walked mostly downhill this morning, navigating the steep Inca steps. It rained softly at first but quickly turned heavy. I figured, as long as my feet weren’t wet, I’d be happy enough. The rain symbolises life to the Inca, as water makes life possible, so I couldn’t grumble too much. The cloud was thick around us again, obscuring what was most definitely spectacular panoramas. However, as yesterday, it created a mystical cloud forest, with spooky jungle trees emerging through the mist, which was extremely atmospheric in itself. I got separated from the fast walkers in front and the slow walkers behind, but I enjoyed the solitude, listening to the peacefulness of the forest and contemplating again the idea that this journey is a pilgrimage, a quest for a clean conscience. And, as if by magic, the mist began to clear to reveal the sun’s warm rays, as I descended under the cloud line. Haybri, Corey and I sidetracked to an Inca agricultural settlement which gave us fabulous views of the valley. From here we can hear the faint choo choo of the Machu Picchu train, which runs along the valley floor, bringing the ‘cheaters’ as we call them. In other words, the people who haven’t walked for three days to get there!
At our campsite we are treated to a hot shower and lunch indoors although, the gigantic electricity pylon in front of the site and the distinct sounds of Bob Marley blaring from the restaurant, kind of spoils the tranquillity of the area. I guess this is the price of tourism

24.09.09 Second Day of Inca Trail - Dead Woman’s Pass

We are awoken at 5.30am this morning with a hot cup of coca tea, freshly brewed by the SAS porters cum chefs. I didn’t get a great night’s sleep because the tent was pitched on a slight slope and I continually slid down my sleeping bag. It rained just as we were getting up but fortunately stopped when we set off. It wouldn’t have been fun to walk in the rain.
The hike is intense. It becomes so that I am only concentrating on my breathing and pulling myself up the steep stone steps using my trusty walking poles. Previously I’d been sceptical about the usefulness of walking poles but since starting the Inca Trail, I’ve changed my mind about them and have begun to rely on them to take at least 30% of my weight.
Dead woman’s pass is swathed in mist. It is a dip in the crest of the mountain line and represents to us the uppermost point of our trek today. We pass an Inca lookout point, circular in design with many small rectangular windows facing both valleys. It was discovered in 1915, four years after Machu Picchu had been uncovered from the onslaught of jungle vegetation.
Over the crest of the mountain we descend down steep stone steps through clouds of mist to our campsite for lunch.
After lunch, we’re informed that we are travelling on 60% original Inca pathways. They constructed the trail by building supporting walls along the cliff face, filling the gap with soil and creating a stone path on top using locally sourced rocks. This trail is one of two to Machu Picchu. It is the longest and was built as a way of pilgrimage for the Inca to journey to the sacred temple, cleansing their souls as part of the ritual. The second trail is known as the ’commercial’ route and is much shorter, used by messengers and for trading purposes.
Also we learn of the significance of the Southern Cross constellation in Inca culture. The Southern Cross indicates the position of the South Pole and the Incas adopted the four point cross as an emblem for their spiritual beliefs. In between the points they added three steps to represent the Inca Trilogy- the three spiritual worlds, the world of the living, the dead and the afterlife, which were also symbolised by the animals puma, snake and condor respectively. These three steps appear regularly in the Inca temples as altar places.
As we again climb uphill through clouds of dense fog, I can’t help but wonder how many pilgrims have taken these steps, including those who had to carry the Inca’s litter.

We visit some more ruins, just off the trail which are eerie in the thick fog. They are perched on a hilltop, another lookout most probably. Corey, a member of our tour, plays a trick on us by throwing a stone from behind a doorway. She hides while we try to decide where the rock came from, then jumps out much to our surprise. It’s like a set from a horror movie up here in the mist.
Evening darkness descends and we have to significantly pick up the pace to our campsite if we’re to make it before it gets pitch.

23.09.09 First Day of Inca Trail leaving Ollantaytambo

I sit here in the dinner tent set up by the SAS porters who’ve been carrying most of our baggage all day, at the end of our first day of trekking. I must say it’s been an endurance test. The hot chocolate we’ve just consumed was very welcome as it turns cold pretty quickly up here (3,200m). Our cosy tents are waiting for us- they were also erected before we arrived at the site by the porters, who virtually ran up the mountains, each carrying approximately 20kgs. They are extremely fit, but tragically don’t have a terribly long career span due to the nature of their job. Although I wish I could help, I’m finding it tough carrying only 8kgs including 1 ½ litres of water.
We have a hard day ahead of us tomorrow, but at least after that the going is not so difficult.
And so to bed…

22.09.09 The Inca Trail - The Sacred Valley (Pisac)

The Sacred Valley gets its name from the richness of the produce which is grown there. It’s fertility is due to the microclimate of the area, allowing otherwise arid land to be heavily cultivated with maize and potatoes. Naturally the Inca used this ecosystem to their advantage, creating thousands of farming terraces covering the steep mountainsides. We visit the agricultural village of Pisac where the ruins of the Inca houses sit atop a craggy hilltop for protection.

The opposite cliff face is dotted with the holes of ancient tombs, which again have been looted of their treasures buried with the dead. The valley is impressive and I feel it is the most ’Peruvian’ we’ve seen so far. By this I mean the Andes peak in sharp pyramids with huge sister mountains rising up behind to the final snow-capped tips. The weather is fantastic and we hope tomorrow will be the same as it’s the first day of our epic trek up the Inca Trail to Machu Picchu.

NB: On leaving Cusco, we make a stop to view the city fort, Saksayhuaman, the most impressive example of Inca stone masonry.

21.09.09 Cusco, Hotel Calhuide

We found an excellent breakfast joint, 'Jack's'. Greg's having hot chocolate and I'm tucking into a lemon and ginger tea. Our huge breakfasts will arrive shortly!

Notice the bronze llama we have just purchased from a street vendor. It will be our companion on the Inca Trail!

Cusco was the capital city of the Inca empire and there is still evidence of it in the polygonal stone walls that are commonplace throughout. Polygonal masonry involves fitting stones together without any mortar, chipping away at the stones’ angles in a laborious task of trial and error. It must’ve taken a long time and much man power. The Spaniards utilised these polygonal stone walls as the basis for many of their buildings, adding to them to complete a very attractive colonial style, finely rendered with colourful wooden balconies and terracotta pan-tiled roofs. Cusco is a tourist magnet and we suffer continuously from hassling salespeople, artists offering poorly executed original watercolours for 20 soles (£4), ladies offering massages and little girls offering finger puppets for 1 sole.
Ooricancha is the main spiritual area of the city, incorporating an Inca sun and moon temple and city cemetery. The Spaniards unfortunately used the site and many of the temple stones to build their own church on top of the hill, which seems to be a recurring theme throughout our trip. They looted and pillaged all Inca temples and graves, using the materials for their own gain.
We come across several antique shops containing many replicas and some original pieces of Inca pottery and other artefacts, and of course we are tempted by the prospect of owning something so old. We settle on a replica of a Mochika pot, which is itself in excess of 250 years old, and an original Inca wooden cup, which could’ve been used for drinking chicha.