12.12.09 - 16.12.09 3 day Whanganui River Canoe Trip

the Wanganui River Valley

From Wellington we drive up the west coast of the North Island to Wanganui, a large historically Maori town on the estuary where the longest navigable river in New Zealand, the Whanganui (at 300km) reaches the sea. We enjoy culinary delights from the cake stall at the Riverboat Market on Saturday morning and test the wild sea waters off the coast of Castle Cliff beach nearby. But the surf and high winds prove a bit too much for us and our little boogie boards- we're tossed around as the waves crash in and get pulled back into the depths with the back current- we only last 20 mins! We arrange to hire a canoe from Canoe Safaris based in Ohakune and the following day we leave Wanganui to drive up the Whanganui River Road which hugs the river's route through the valley, to the small ski resort town of Ohakune, nearby the Tongariro National Park. The stretch of the Whanganui river from Whakahoro to Pipiriki is renowned as the most scenic part of the Whanganui river journey which has been given a New Zealand Great Walk status, even though it's on water. The whole area is part of the Wanganui National Park, managed by the Department of Conservation in association with the Maori tribes who still occupy the banks of the river in traditional dwellings. We stock up on all the essentials we'll need for our 3 day trip on the river and collect our watertight barrels from the Canoe Safari lodge to fill with food, clothes, sleeping bags and torches, the huts we'll be staying in have no electricity. We need to meet at the lodge early next morning to get to the river to start our first day's paddle. We'll be covering 30km downstream to reach the first camp, John Coull Hut. We're warned by the driver of the first meeting of river currents because there's the chance we could capsize. Apart from the odd rapid it should be an easy ride. The river levels are very high so it's flowing faster but the rapids shouldn't be as tricky. The water's hidden the rocks that cause the rapids but the undercurrents will still affect the boat, pulling it in different directions. The advice is to keep paddling if you start wobbling to try to remain steady. The canoe is a double Canadian canoe which is open-topped and a lot bigger than a kayak. However, unlike a kayak, it's more easily flipped and, although our gear is in so-called watertight containers, we don't want to risk it getting wet, so we make every effort possible to avoid going over. As soon as we get paddling it becomes obvious to me why people say they can forget who they are and everything in the outside world when they paddle down the Whanganui. It's so serene and quiet on the gentle flowing water and the continuous moving gallery of jungle foliage clinging to the sandstone cliff faces and countless waterfalls makes it one of the most relaxing and stress free experiences I've ever had. I personally believe a canoe down the Whanganui should be used as a form of treatment for stress!

Although there are other parties on the river while we are, it's quite convenient that the bends in the river hide them from us, so we feel that we're the only ones there. We only get to meet up with them when we all arrive at the first hut at different times. There are a Dutch couple, a German couple, four Americans, two Singaporeans and five Israelis. Staying in a small hut in communal bunks and using a small kitchen/ diner means that we have no choice but to get to know our canoeing companions. We eat together round the dining table, staying cosy by the logburner that Mae and Olive, lodge wardens, keep stoked for us. Mae and Olive are Maori and Olive has a Maori design tattooed on her chin to represent her important lineage. As it gets dark Greg lights our gas lantern to help us keep playing Tantrix and cards on the table but it's not long before everyone makes their way to the adjacent bunk room for the night. After a not so restful sleep- one of our group is a snorer- we pack up our barrels and untie our waka (canoe) for the second day on the river. We have to cover another 30kms to get to the next hut, a traditional Maori pa (settlement) complete with it's own marae (meeting house) called Tieke Kainga. The Department of Conservation have conveniently signposted the river banks to indicate where the campgrounds and huts are- they are often invisible from the river, so we know where to moor up.

We stop halfway to visit the famous Bridge to Nowhere, a short bush walk from the bank. The Bridge to Nowhere has an interesting story behind it to explain it's name. After the First World War, the New Zealand soldiers who returned were relocated to the areas surrounding the Whanganui and given land to farm. Unfortunately the land was too rugged and many of the farmers abandoned it. However, prior to this, it was planned to build a whole community in the area and construct a road to it which is why the bridge was built to cross a deep canyon. The concrete structure now sits redundant as the Great Depression also added to the problems faced by the farmers. Britain no longer agreed to pay the prices for imported goods from New Zealand so many ordinary folk had to leave their land to seek other employment. We walk across it but we notice it is no longer the bridge to nowhere, it in fact leads to a walking track. We feel duped! In the second half of the day we suffer strong head winds which make the paddling much more difficult. And, by the way, because I'm in front, I have to do most of the paddling while Greg is using his paddle as a steering rudder. Although, he would dispute this! We make it to Tieke Kainga with time to spare though and have to tiptoe into the hut as there's a Maori youth community group having a meditation session in front of the marae. When they're finished we're introduced to the group leader and the chief lady who also has a chin tattoo. They're very welcoming and offer us a hot drink. We 'book' our bunks and enjoy the last rays of sunshine before it disappears behind the hilltops. The teenagers play guitar and sing together in harmonies which are not bad, if a little loud at times. Their group leader tells us they're on a 6 day journey of discovery. As a Maori community worker he's trying to give them a positive experience and boost their pride in themselves. They all bunk up in the marae so we have the hut to ourselves. This one has two separate rooms so we're sure to pick the one the snorer isn't in. A peaceful uninterrupted sleep ensues. We're the first to set off on the last day and the river is still like a millpond.

It's beautiful when the sun hits the scenery. We paddle up one of the many waterfall gullies to have a close up look at the sparkling water as it comes over the mossy cliff edges. It's magical. I vow to try to recreate one of these spectacular natural water features in my garden one day! There are three sets of stronger rapids on the home stretch and there are times when we're pulled by the water underneath us into the flow even though we're a bit apprehensive about going through too many waves and are paddling as hard as we can. After mooring up for the final time at Pipiriki boat ramp we all say our goodbyes because, even though we've not seen each other on the river, we've grown quite close through spending two nights in huts together. This experience has to be up there with swimming with dolphins and the Tongariro Crossing as one of the best in New Zealand.