Sunday 29 November 2009

10.11.09 Tongariro Alpine Crossing- NZ Great Walk


At the first of the volcanoes

(19.4km across Tongariro National Park)
Mount Ngaruhoe- aka 'Mount Doom', Green and Blue Lakes

It's freezing this morning, up in the mountains of Tongariro National Park. We camped at the Base Camp site last night in order to be up early enough for our shuttle to the start of the crossing, but it's really cold up here and it was the first time we weren't completely comfortable in our van. A hot cup of tea from the base camp cafe sorted us out though before we boarded the minibus. The good thing is the reason it is so cold is the sky's completely clear of clouds so it should make for a sunny day today. And, sure enough, as we reach the start of the walk the sun's already breaking over the side of the mountains adding some much welcomed warmth. But there's still plenty of frost on the ground where the sun hasn't quite reached. The first part of the walk passes by Mount Ngaruhoe, aka Mount Doom from Lord of the Rings. It's covered in snow and it's not long before we're ascending up past the snow line and into the mountain plateau. The saddle between the ranges is a stunning no-mans land, evidence of a violent volcanic history all around us. The route that the lava originally took is very obvious on the side of the mountain and the huge black boulders strewn across the plains show the extent of the eruption. There is in fact a small vent of steam halfway up the face and walkers are warned, prior to embarking, to be wary of any volcanic activity and to leave the area if any serious activity occurs. We reach the highest point of the crossing and an incredible vista presents itself on the other side- the Red Crater.
This is a vast volcanic crater which is charred black and red and has huge unnatural looking rock formations made when the molten lava erupted and shaped the entire area. It's flanked by another cone-shaped volcano and is draped behind by a panorama over the ranges and into the far distance. The biting cold wind forces us to pick up the pace down the far side of the slope to the striking Blue and Green lakes.
A strong sulphurous smell reaches our noses so we know we're in a volcanically active area for sure. The lakes sit at different levels on the mountainside rich in mineral colours, all the brighter by the sun's gaze against the piercing blue sky. We pass through them, up the second ridge and begin our final descent to the end point of the walk. This is the most arduous part for me because my legs are starting to give way and the path keeps going on and on, but we make it and the view across to Lake Taupo isn't half bad. All in all an exerting but stunning day's walk.