Sunday 29 November 2009

13.11.09 - 14.11.09 Picton and the Marlborough Sounds

South Island

We catch the ferry to the South Island at 8am and it takes 3 hours of plain sailing across the Cook Strait to reach Picton, the entry point to the south of New Zealand. The ferry passes through the Queen Charlotte Sound, which is part of the Marlborough Sounds, an impressive array of inlets and hilly peninsulas which were formed when the sea level rose after the last ice age. Picton is a small resort town, dominated by the ferries which arrive and depart several times every day. We set up camp in a local site where many of the campers are full time residents. We get chatting with a couple in the communal kitchen who've come up to Picton from down south for building work- he's of Irish descent and she's Moari. They're staying at the camp for six weeks. She's very keen to encorage us to see the South Island and again they turn out to be really friendly people. There seems to be a recurring theme here! It's a beautiful day in Picton so I decide to change into shorts, however, in the space of four minutes, from when I go into the changing room to when I come out, a gale force wind started up and the sky completely clouded over! I find Greg fighting with the awning on the van as he's being blown around, left right and centre. It sure is true, that the New Zealand weather can be changeable.
The following day we drive out to Queen Charlotte Drive, a road renowned for it's scenic views of the Marlborough Sounds, and it doesn't disappoint. The water is turquoise against an azure sky and the tiny beaches and bays make for an impressive view all the way along the winding ride. Greg spots an isolated peninsula on the map which does seem to have a minor road/ track leading to it so we make a break for it, changing into 4x4 mode for the gravel underneath. We get as far as we can, away from civilisation, and come upon a metal gate. Although it doesn't say it's private property. However we decide not to risk it and instead take the winding route down the hillside to the beautiful bay below. At the bottom there's a sign asking anyone who wishes to drive on to call in at the first house. It's one of these situations where you expect the owner to be rude and say 'get off my property' but she was very nice and, yes, we weren't to go any farther but she pointed us in the direction of her neighbour's campsite and wished us well on our way. We found the campsite at the adjacent bay and it sure was an idyllic spot. She'd told us they were away for the weekend but wouldn't mind us camping up for the night. We were the only ones there and had the whole place, including the beach, to ourselves. Wow, a private beach where we were the first to create footprints that day. I insisted on swimming in the water since it was our very own beach so, even though it was too cold for Greg to brave the water, I donned my wetsuit and in I went.
Later we attempted to erect the awning but soon enough the gale force winds picked up again and it was impossible to keep it stable. So we ended up cooking our bowl of noodles under the shelter of the shower block with the winds swirling round us in the pitch black. Even though the weather had thwarted our plans of a relaxing evening I was still so excited to be out in such an isolated place.
The next morning we high-tailed it back along the winding roads of the peninsula, saying goodbye to our haven at Titirangi Bay and headed down the coast through the Wairau Plains (aka Marlborough Wine country) and down towards Kaikoura. We first glimpse the impressive inland Kaikoura mountain range as we come round a headland and we have to stop to take a photo and take in the breathtaking panorama. The snow-capped peaks fall to short plains which are immediately followed by the bright blue of the Pacific Ocean. Fantastic. And, to top it all off, just by the roadside, a little further down, we stop to see a very large seal colony basking on the rocks in the afternoon sun.
There are hundreds of them, playing and diving in and out of the water. The sea around Kaikoura is rich in marine life due to its unique mix of hot and cold waters due to the deep underwater canyons just off shore which cause an upsurge of food from the depths.