Bangkok

Ko Ratanakosin (the imperial quarter)

17.02.10

Ko Ratanakosin is the area of Bangkok in which the Grand Palace of King Rama I, built in 1782 and it's many Wat (temples) is located. The area was chosen as a new royal capital for the country of Siam in the late 18th century when the era of the Chakri dynasty had begun with the ordainment of King Rama I. The previous royal capitals of Sukhothai and Ayutthaya were superceded by Bangkok and the region beside the Chao Praya river, where thousands of Chinese immigrants resided, was chosen as the site for the most elaborate set of royal buildings in the country's history. The Chinese contingent was relocated further along the bank and the extensive building work begun. We'd been advised to arrive early to gain entry before the tour parties of the day descended and we managed to avoid the rush of the afternoon, but the morning period still proved to be exceptionally busy. It must be the highlight of everyone's visit to Bangkok. The imperial city is enclosed within 2.9 km of tall white washed walls and the impressive tiled roofs and spires of the Wats appear tantilisingly over the top, like a gilded toy city. The main wat houses the most famous buddha statue, the Emerald Buddha (he is green, but is, in fact made of jade) who sits only 66cm tall with a lap span of 48cm. He sits sloft a high throne and multilevel altar which is completely adorned in gold leaf decorations. He is clothed according to the season, and King Bhumibol himself performs the ceremony of the changing of the buddha's attire. We must remove our shoes on entering the temple of the Emerald Buddha (whenever you ascend to the level on which an image of the buddha rests you must remove them) and it's a sacred place. There are buddhists sitting on the carpet, always with the soles of their feet pointing away from the buddha, praying to him with their palms together and their heads bowed. But, in general, the buddhists inside and outside the temples here don't seem too sombre. They purchase single lotus flower stems and, outside the temple doors, dab them in the bowls of holy water and annoint each other on the head with them. But this is all done with laughter and enjoyment and posing to have their picture taken while doing it.

The architecture and facade decoration of the wats and associated buildings also echo this frivolity in the flashy gold painted garudas (mythical creatures, half man, half bird) and colourful mirror mosaics and tiles that cover all available surfaces. The rooftops and gables of the buildings are especially proud with their distinctly Thai shaped finials and sculpted red and gold diarama scenes.

The giant chedi made of gold mosaic tiles is of the Sri Lankan bell-shaped design and houses what is said to be a part of the buddha's breastbone. The chedi's bell shape, leading up to a spire that reaches into the sky is to represent the path to enlightenment associated with buddhism and is a shape which can be seen again and again in Thai culture, especially in the royal crowns and the hats used in traditional Thai theatrical performances. Other buildings in the complex, such as the imperial library, represent a distinctly different type of facade adornment in the form of clay ceramic 3D motifs, the main ones being flowers. Bits of coloured ceramic pots are expertly cut and placed to become petals and scales of dragons and completely encompass the exterior walls and roofs. The colours are much more subdued than the brights of the main wat and there is no use of harsh gold, so popular with the others. It's evident King Rama I was keen to display many kinds of architecture and design here. I also especially like the stone guardians in the shapes of warrior men, Chinese style lions or winged mythical bird men who stand two apiece on every entrance way and the continuous painted mural which extends round the entire length of the inside of the city's walls, depicting scenes from the story of Ramakasin.

The inner temple complex of Wat Phra Kaew gives way to the broader area of the Grand Palace, former residence of the King (he now uses Dusit Palace, a little further north in the city). This area of throne halls, armoury museums and official buildings is not as breathtaking as the temple zone but the gardens of carefully trimmed bonsai trees and statues of the sacred elephant are very impressive also. A white elephant is said to be of extra special good fortune in Thailand and it is customary for the King to be in possession of one (which he is now). The saying 'a white elephant',meaning a dud, comes from the fact that any albino elephants were destined to be cared for rather than worked, and therefore useless.