Georgetown, Penang 01.02.10 - 02.02.10

Georgetown is the capital of the Penang Province of north western Malaysia, the majority of which is on an island, Pulau Penang. Georgetown sits on the corner of this island and is connected to the mainland by one of the longest bridges in the world and a ferry service. It's history lies with the era of the Dutch East India Company and subsequently found itself under British rule which made the port town very wealthy. There are many historical buildings realting to this era including and Anglo church, convent and the strategically located Dutch fort which occupies the outermost point of the city's peninsula. It certainly exudes a much wealthier air than the rest of Malaysia with bigger cars, cleaned up and renovated buildings (they're working really hard to maintain it's UNESCO World Heritage status) and the signs saying you'll be fined 500RM if you drop a piece of litter are certainly a new feature of street life. Everyday life in the Chinatown district where we're staying remains pretty much the same as other places we've been however. People work hard, bringing out all their wares on to the street to sell, setting up food stalls to sell cheap food all day. It's a struggle to make ends meet here. It's amazing to me that so many products are still handmade in shops on the street, like hammering out metal trays and vessels, weaving rattan furniture, making wooden blinds and welding ironwork for architectural projects.

The street is a truly creative place. And most shops and stalls have a shrine, or blessing place where candles are lit or even fairy lights are hung to bring good fortune to the owners. People know each other on the street, saying their hellos as they pass and look out for one another, which becomes obvious in the way they help their elders and less able. It's uncouth to raise your voice in this country and I have yet to witness an argument or act of maliciousness.

a family temple in the side wing of their mansion house

We enjoy visiting two of Penang's old mansionhouses which were occupied by wealthy Baba Nyonya professionals.

intense blue of the Cheong Fatt Tze mansion house- gable roof end

The Cheong Fatt Tze mansion has won awards for its careful restoration and presentation to the public. Cheong Fatt Tze was one of the most renowned figures in South East Asian business in the time of the colonists. He left his home in China aged 16 to seek fame and fortune and found it in Indonesia under the Dutch East India Company. Although not academically trained they saw potential in him to become a spearhead in the community and subsequently went on to become official head of several institutions within the country, education being one of them. Not satisfied with these achievments he moved up to Malaysia where the British were in power and set about showing his skills here. Again they granted him high status and it was here in Georgetown where he sought to build his favourite home. The road, now called Jalan Leith by the British, was then named Lotus Lane because of the lotus flower that was known to bloom there, so, with the lotus flower being one of the best signs of good luck to the Chinese he decided to build his mansion here. He built it according to the rules of Feng Shui, a living tradition which has been linked to the folk religions of China. There must be wind and water coming in to the house, therefore an open courtyard in the centre of the house was imperative. The wind symbolised movement and the winds of change, to keep the place healthy and not stagnant. And the water, which fell as rain into the courtyard symbolised wealth, so the more water the more wealth. Chinese are inherently driven by the pursuit of wealth! As he was living outside traditional China he was able to break traditional Chinese rules of architecture and interior design. He chose to impress his colonial buddies by bringing in specially designed English floor tiles and stained glass windows and Scottish wrought ironwork in the form of impressive spiral staircases and window tops. Unfortunately, having bequeathed all his numerous properties and businesses to his sons, they chose to sell them all and the mansion fell to ruins. It was only in 1989 that it was bought back by the Malaysian Tourist board and restored to its former glory.

I love the Chinese embroidered curtain drapes and bridal beds and the intricately carved wood relief with gold leaf. The Chinese fok religions are very much alive here with the significant Chinese community attending their temples and praying to their ancestors by lighting candles, incense and presenting gifts of fruit and flowers. And, with the upcoming Chinese New Year celebrations of the year of the tiger there is an anticipation and excitement in the air, just like the run up to Christmas.