Land of a Thousand Smiles

You might think it a bit cheesy but Thailand really is the Land of a Thousand Smiles. I can say this with confidence because of the sheer number of times I've been smiled at while being here. And yes, a fair few of them were people tryiing to get me to come into their shop or offering me a tuk tuk ride, but a lot were genuine greetings or passers by in the street. It's a lovely feeling and, of course, it makes you want to do it back. I walk around with a permanent grin on my face. I've been trying to fathom the reason for this perpetual hospitality and kind naturedness. And I think it might have something to do with the way people are brought up with their religion, Buddhism and patriotism to the King, King Bhumibol, whose image is everywhere. It's a very foreign concept to us Brits that everyone dotes on the King and it is a very sinful deed to speak badly of him. Yes, we do have a royal family but it's popularity is hardly anything compared to that of King Bhumibol, at least not in Britain. People hang framed portraits of him in their homes and shop fronts. There are endless statues, ornaments and calendars you can buy with his image. He's like an Asian pope. And his link with Buddhism, he trained as a monk and performs in Buddhist rituals and celebrations frequently, only increases his strength as a figurehead and is seen as a role model for all young Thais. When we grab a couple of hours retreat from the heat of the street and catch a film at one of the cinemas, we are in amazement at how diligently everyone in the auditorium stands quietly as the national anthem is played along to nauseating images of the King helping children in need. He is in fact portrayed as a god who brings the rain for the new season of rice growing. We feel strange standing up too and may have opted out of this ritual in another country but the feeling of love for this King we've experienced here has made us unwilling to rebel. And this brings me back to my reasoning for that open faced smile. Althougb patronage of the King and constitution may not be to everyone's tastes it seems that here in Thailand it brings great joy to a lot of people and they are very proud and honoured to be ruled by him. This and their calm, thoughful ways, most possibly gained from practising the teachings of the Buddha (karma etc.), make them come across as very happy people. Just wait til we get to China. It might not be quite the same there!