25.09.09 Third Day of Inca Trail

I slept very well last night and I think it was partially down to the Te Macho with a splash of rum we were all offered by Carlos, our guide, before bed. Te Macho is fruity and sweet and very welcome in the cold climes of the mountain tops. We were camped in the middle of nowhere and, even when we awoke, the cool mist still surrounded us accompanied, unfortunately, by clouds of midges. We walked mostly downhill this morning, navigating the steep Inca steps. It rained softly at first but quickly turned heavy. I figured, as long as my feet weren’t wet, I’d be happy enough. The rain symbolises life to the Inca, as water makes life possible, so I couldn’t grumble too much. The cloud was thick around us again, obscuring what was most definitely spectacular panoramas. However, as yesterday, it created a mystical cloud forest, with spooky jungle trees emerging through the mist, which was extremely atmospheric in itself. I got separated from the fast walkers in front and the slow walkers behind, but I enjoyed the solitude, listening to the peacefulness of the forest and contemplating again the idea that this journey is a pilgrimage, a quest for a clean conscience. And, as if by magic, the mist began to clear to reveal the sun’s warm rays, as I descended under the cloud line. Haybri, Corey and I sidetracked to an Inca agricultural settlement which gave us fabulous views of the valley. From here we can hear the faint choo choo of the Machu Picchu train, which runs along the valley floor, bringing the ‘cheaters’ as we call them. In other words, the people who haven’t walked for three days to get there!
At our campsite we are treated to a hot shower and lunch indoors although, the gigantic electricity pylon in front of the site and the distinct sounds of Bob Marley blaring from the restaurant, kind of spoils the tranquillity of the area. I guess this is the price of tourism