26.09.09 Last Day of Inca Trail - Machu Picchu

4.30am

After thanking all the 23 porters who carried our luggage and tents, yesterday evening Carlos ran through with us our options for an early start to Machu Picchu. As there are many tour parties departing from our campsite on the same day, it’s imperative we secure our space in the queue at the checkpoint. We opt for rising at 4.00am, skipping breakfast and heading off at 4.30am to be well ahead of the other groups for when the checkpoint opens at 5.30am.
It’s pitch black at that time in the morning and I feel like we’re all off on a school trip by the rising excitement that’s growing through our ranks.
When the checkpoint opens, it’s getting light, and the race is on to arrive at the Inca Sun Gate as the first rays of morning sun shine through towards Machu Picchu.

climbing the steep stone steps to the Sun Gate

The Sun Gate is the point at which all weary travellers and pilgrims first encounter the panorama of Machu Picchu, nestled amidst stunning Andean mountains. Greg and I are fortunate to catch a glimpse of the city before clouds descend and hide it from view.

At first I am a little disappointed by the sheer number of trekkers covering every step of the Sun Gate, however the atmosphere is one of excitement and anticipation as Machu Picchu reveals itself through the cloud one last time, and there is a sense that we all made it.

This is what we’ve travelled thousands of miles to witness. After resting and awaiting the remainder of the group we begin our descent to the city. Unfortunately one of our group, Nathan, is unable to trek with us today, because he is very ill with food poisoning. A stretcher team is called to carry him down the mountain as he is too weak to walk and one of our tour, Corey, who is a doctor, stays with him until he is transported to the local town of Aguas Calientes for some much needed re-hydration treatment. We have so much sympathy for the bad luck he’s suffered, having to miss out on the highlight of his South American tour. However, we come to the conclusion that, although the precarious setting of Machu Picchu on top of the severe craggy mountains is stunning in itself, the actual city is not as remarkable and the hoards of tourists make it seem like a bit of a theme park. We have to jostle past hundreds of people who have journeyed by train and we have a distinct resentment towards them because they haven’t struggled as we have to be there. The place is, in effect, spoiled by the winding road up from the train station bringing all the daytrippers on loud coaches. Carlos explains that there is no limit to the numbers allowed into Machu Picchu each day. It is dictated by the train company, whose backhanders to the Peruvian government, allow the national park to be open 365 days a year. However, Machu Picchu may not be around for very much longer. Geologists have discovered that beneath the mountain’s surface there are many hollows of air and, in fact, the whole place is subsiding. This can be seen in the cracks which are appearing in certain sections of the Inca walls.

Hiram Bingham discovered the lost city of Machu Picchu in 1911 after much investigation into Inca culture. He was in fact looking for the imperial city of Villcabamba when, after asking a local farmer about the area of the Urubamba valley, he was led to the top of the mountain where the remains of the great Inca city lay under masses of overgrown vegetation.
The position of the city was most definitely chosen for its proximity to the sun, high in the uppermost mountain passes, and the presence of a natural spring which would provide much needed water for the settlement.
The Inca himself had a palace here alongside three important temples of the sun, water and earth. The Inca celebrated the environment around them and treated the elements of life with great respect. The temple of the earth displays incredible Inca masonry with carefully cut stones fitting perfectly between two natural rock formations. Again the dedication and patience of the Inca stone masons is made evident to us. The white granite was quarried from the mountainside itself but it was dangerous work and many must have died in the process.
Machu Picchu was abandoned by its inhabitants when news arrived that the Spaniards were on their way to conquer. It is said that the gold, silver and jewels which adorned the buildings were smuggled by the Inca to be hidden somewhere in the jungle, to avoid the fate that had befallen other royal cities, where the Spaniards had looted all metal and had had it melted down.
Legend has it that there is still one undiscovered Inca city which has the shape of the underground god, the snake. Cusco was built in the form of the earth god, the puma, Machu Picchu in the form of the heavenly god, the condor, and therefore the missing city of the snake is still a mystery. Perhaps it’s hidden in the Amazon jungle.
As we’re bussed down the winding mountainside road to the little town of Aguas Calientes, we’re taken aback by the sheer height at which Machu Picchu sits, and we’re also sadly reminded that this is the end of our Inca Trail adventure. Although we’re exhausted and in need of a good shower, we wouldn’t have journeyed to Machu Picchu any other way. The four day trek has been a challenge we’ll never forget.